Welcome

This blog is a space to share my experiences during my Peace Corps service. It is also a space to share my art, and to question everything from female agency to fried hotdogs. I hope you enjoy :)

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Peace Corps Swear in

On march 14th I swore in as a official Peace Corps Volunteer. After 2 and half months it was a huge celebration. After a year deferment and almost another year of waiting I was finally an official Peace Corps Volunteer.  Here are some photos of me and my friends. All shots of me were taken by my great friend fellow PCV Felipe from North Carolina.
My great friends Felipe and Rebecca. Such an amazing team and volunteers. Rebecca wrote a beautiful speech on behalf of the CEC sector and spoke in front of many higher ups in government. She spoke in perfect Spanish! 

My "Aunt" and I.  Sarah is such wonderful friend. She is serving with indigenous communities in The Darien.

My family and I. We were part of the same clan during training. They held me down.

I was so happy! 


My friend Adrians. She is so full of light. She is serving in Veraguas.

Emily and Sally from Texas! Both amazing women.

My sis Stephanie from Miami. Wonderful woman in the Teaching English sector.

Sarah

One of my best friends. Tom from the DMV. He is a fool! So funny and a great volunteer. 

The Places That Scare Us



Fear handicaps. It takes hold of you and squeezes until you cannot breathe nor move. Fear kills.  Lately I have been very afraid and that fear almost killed my happiness and my effectiveness as a Peace Corps Volunteer. I am not afraid of meeting people nor am I afraid of Spanish. I speak the language recklessly. Spewing poorly conjugated verbs and made up Spanglish nouns. I do this without shame like a toddler learning to walk. I fall all over the place gleefully ready to learn. The fear of failure is my monster.  It haunts my dreams as well as my mornings.  A huge part of it is ego. I want to be the best Peace Corps Volunteer ever. I think my group is the best Peace Corps group ever!   That ego combined with a huge need to be helpful makes the prospect of disappointing my community too much to bear at times.  My father refers to this the trap of being awesome. There have been times when my want to leave my community in awe of my ability to be witty, giving, and creative has superseded my want to simply experience. It is at these times that my lack of wit, my rigidness creatively, and my inability to give or do anything hurts the most. My first 3 months here in my community are about me learning about the place and people that I live with.  I sit for hours in a school and watch. I cannot teach right now. I cannot start any projects.  I want to pasear (visit and talk)
 to 11 houses a day yet the heat, which at times reaches 100 degrees, prevents that. I can only experience. Sometimes I fail even at that. It can be tedious and hot and there is no place to show or do. That ego and that fear of failure trapped me for many days. I couldn’t get out of bed and racked my brain how everybody would see me as fraud. All the Peace Corps Volunteers that I admire would be disappointed, as would my community. It got so bad that the thing that I was afraid of most, failing my community, I began to do. I shrunk away from the people in my community and ran to things that would give me comfort from the Monster of failure. For me, it was the easy access to Internet. For others it is food, or love, or liquor, or shopping. Whatever it is that we use to deter us from the things we are afraid of only prolongs that pain. Instead of looking at that monster we run and run creating a cycle. I was afraid of failure.  So afraid that I began to fail which would make me feel worse and want to sooth the pain of it.    
            I believe in the power of meditation and self-actualization. A leader in meditation Pema Chordron speaks at length about the power of fear in our lives. She has a book “The Places that scare you: A guide to Fearlessness in Difficult Times “, and reading it helped me allot.  I knew that the only way to conquer this monster was to first look at it. Looking at it was painful. No one wants to see himself or herself as egotistical or needy. No one wants to see that they have actually not been mindful. However it is the only way to get over it.  I looked at myself and decided I had to change the pattern that I was in or I would stay emotionally stuck and would not have an effective or happy Peace Corps Service. I gave myself very small goals in order to battle my fear.  Here are the goals I made for myself:
            Get out of Bed
            DO NOT use the computer in the morning
            Leave the House
            Go to School
            Visit 2 houses
Finding peace
These things may seem very easy but when you are handicapped by fear they can be impossible. Little by little I began to be able to look at that monster and fight. I was able to be more present in the moment and exhibited more control over myself. This allowed me to give more of myself. My experiences with people in my town were rich and substantial. I was happy and at peace. Of course I am not finished. I will have to teach myself these lessons over and over again. Like a toddler I will stumble and fall many times yet I will get back up gleefully ready to try again.  I urge you all to continue to explore the places that scare you and to fight against those monsters that haunt you. Your life will be richer for it. 

Good Gossip



Gossip or Bonchinche in Spanish can be an awful thing. It can destroy reputations and end friendships. However I am finding that it can also be very helpful. My community is small by U.S. standards. There are 1,000 people here. It is rural and is about 40 minuets away from the city. Gossip is a major form of entertainment here. If I leave to run an errand in the city, the whole town knows. They know what I cooked for my family and tell me about later. This is really strange for me as I am from a large city where no one knows or cares what you are doing.

            One day I was walking around the community and looking at housing options. I live with a family for my first 3 months and after that I get my own place.  The 2 options provided by the Peace Corps were not suitable for me.  One was $100 a month which is crazy expensive here. It also was across the street from the biggest bar in town, which is both annoying and dangerous (although I would have a gate surrounding my house). The other was beautiful but far away from the majority of people.  While walking I ran into my dream house.  It was in the middle of town, close to family here, and beautiful.  It had a lovely porch with aqua blue columns. There were 3 large floor to ceiling doors that doubled as windows.  It was love at first sight.  I said to my compeneros “ Wow. I love that house!  Its my Casa de suenos (dream house)”.  They looked at me like I was crazy.  “Why would you want to live in a old house like that? “  “I heard there were ghost that lived there!”  I stood undeterred I loved the house.  There was a problem however, the landlord was the widowed wife of the last inhabitant and lived 4 hours away. I didn’t have a way to contact her.  2 days after I said I loved the house the whole town knew. They called it “Temps casa de suenos” and laughed at the fact that I liked old houses. 1 week after I said I loved the house the grand daughter of the landlord came to me. She had talked to her grandmother about me. 3 weeks after, I walked past my dream house to see men working furiously in the back yard hacking up overgrown weeds. The grandma was in the yard waiting for me.  She invited me inside the house. It was spacious and cool. I loved it even more!  She showed the other houses she had. These houses were modern with indoor bathrooms (rare for my community). I still loved the old house. She said that I could live there for $20 a month and use the stove and furniture from the other houses. I got my dream house!  I owe all this to some good gossip.  

Photos of the day: Nature at it's finest

I live in a very beautiful country. Panama has amazing bio diversity. Here are shots of the land. All original photographs shot by me.








The Panties


My cheeks were burning and it was not because of the hot sun beating down on me. It was washday and now it was time to hang up my semi hand washed clothes. There were a group of men in front of me, family but still men. My host dad, grandpa, brothers, and cousins were sitting lazily about the patio enjoying watermelon and talking. I froze.  It was time to hang up my underwear. In a few moments my panties would be flapping in front of their faces. The dainty ones, the sexy ones, the grandma draws, the holey forever stained ones would be drawn up in the air like flags for all the world to see. I grimaced as I tried to develop a strategy to hide them. Dresses in the front draws on the line behind. Only it didn’t matter, a whole group of people would have a good view wherever they stood. Also no one else shared my embarrassment. If you walk around my community on any given day there are lots of panties hanging. People don’t try to find a discreet place to dry them either. You find them on the spears guarding the welcome gate of a home. You find them strung up above your head when you sit on a porch. They are inescapable. In the U.S. nobody sees my underwear except for whoever glimpses while I'm washing clothes or if I specifically WANT them to see them. Which is very rare grandma J I had to grin and bear it. People here do not have the luxury of having fancy dryers inside of their home. I am lucky that part of my wash is taken care of by a small washing machine. I have to rinse and scrub the clothes after and then hang them up. The rest of my community does it without shame. This says more about U.S. culture then it does about them and it inspires me. One day…not now but one day I will not feel embarrassed to see my panties blowing in the wind.   
Fellow PCV Alex from Ohio shot the photograph

Letters from my students

I hope you have a good time where you are going to help people that live in the jungle.

I hope you have a good time in Panama. I hope you can bring me back a coconut from the jungle.



Before I was a Peace Corps Volunteer I was a Teacher. I worked in a inner city school in one of the most violent and poor neighborhoods in a city that is plagued by violence and poverty. My children saw far more and experienced far more then any child should. Although their lives were hard, they had bright lights and energetic spirits. I recently came across the letters they wrote me as I was leaving for Peace Corps Service and would love to share some of the letters with you.
Note: I do not have long, flowy, red hair. I have a dark Afro lol
I will miss you and I love(d) when you would read to us. 
I am going to miss you. But when you go can you send a picture of you and those sweet nice people.    :)

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Photos of the Day: Sisters & Family

This shot was taken a few days before it was time to say goodbye to my host family. These are all the "Children" or second and third generation of the family. It is a very raw shot and captures the beauty of my family in Los Mortales.
This was a shot that I took during a volunteer site visit. These young girls had seen allot even in their young age. I could tell by their eyes.

Monday, April 9, 2012

Trash Day




Tears fall from my stinging eyes as I run past a tree. Bright amber flames are licking up in the air as toxic fumes fill my lungs. My fellow volunteers cough and gasp as we try to escape the smoke but it is no use. As soon as we escape we run into yet another burning pile.

It is Trash day in Los Mortales.

In the United States, we buy processed and packaged goods all of the time. When we are finished we throw it in the trash. Then once a week we drag our bins out and a nice big clean truck, more or less, comes and hauls our trash away. Our hands and homes are clean.

In most parts of Panama, and the majority of underdeveloped countries, people that are lucky enough to be able to afford packaged good use those goods...But no big clean truck comes up to pick it up once a week. Their plastics, and rappers, and alumunium, and batteries, and human waste, and scraps of food sit.. on the sides of roads or in back yards. Until trash day. On trash day; men, women, and sometimes children put all said objects in a pile and set fire to it. Those fumes and smoke bellow into the air. That air is filled with fumes and toxins that they then breath. Those same toxins settle onto their crops or on grass that their animals eat, and then which are consumed. Those same toxins settle into the water that people bath and drink out of.
Westerners have the privilege of shipping off their dirty trash to places like Africa or the middle east were they sit consumed in flames. Other times our trash is put in safe, clean landfills. So it is very easy for those same westerners to come and view the "trash days" in Panama as backwards. It is quite the opposite if we look at the history of waste here.
In the past, all of the trash in country was organic. You ate watermelon or chicken or made a cake and you could put the waste in the back yard or on the side of the rode. That waste would break down quickly and provide nutrients to the earth. Glass bottles and jars were always reused and repurposed. Folks of lower economic means back home in Philly understand this ritual very well. Our Ragu jars, and Country Crook jars were always used to hold bacon fat or left over food. However as plastics and other inorganic materials were introduced to society they would not break down. As people in the Campo were able to get more money they wanted to spend it on packaged items. These items show that you are no longer strugling that you can afford to go into the city and buy goods that used to be reserved for the middle class or rich. The only problem is that unlike those other groups of people the packaged goods were stuck. The burning of trash is a large public health issue as it increase cancer risk, asthma, and leads to other health problems. It also lowers the quality of life in these beautiful towns but the people living under these conditions don't know what to do. Thats where organizations like the Peace Corps come in!
I am part of the environmental sector. It is my job to help develop better waste management solutions with the people in my town. Already I am talking to people about the dangers of trash burning. I learned during training that we can use plastic bottles and stuff trash in those bottles. We can then bury those bottles and it protects the toxins from entering into the ground water. I am lucky in that my site does have a "trash man" of sorts. He comes once a month. Many times with only one day notice and carts away trash for 3 dollars. It is an underused service however because of the lack of information. It is my goal to streamline that process and implement a recycling program. I think that with the help of the beautiful people of Portobelillo that we can do it.

Photos of the day: A moment of Prayer & Twins





While visiting a school in El Pilon I took a shot of children praying. The prayer was mandated by the school. I was struck by all the reactions to being forced to pray. Some children seemed to be en raptured, others indifferent. Hope you enjoy the shot
I took this shot of twins at play during my visit to El Pilon. These boys would come and visit me at my house. They loved sitting on my lap and asking tons of questions. Although they were only 2 years old, their vocabulary was extensive. They would often go through my ipod touch and look at the album covers. They thought Dangelo was my husband! (I wish lol). I think this shot captures their spirits. Hope you enjoy.

Character Study #2 : The legend of Chinito





The earth smelled of fresh rain the day that I met him. It was mid day and the hot Panamanian sun hung hazily in the sky. I was helping PCV Lorena draft up posters for her trash pick up when suddenly I started to get sick. Maybe it was the heat or maybe it was the non-refrigerated food I had eaten yesterday. As I walked down the covered walkway of the school to go home, I saw beautiful teenaged girl. Tight shiny curls cascaded from a half hazard bun on the top of her head. Her full lips had a trace of lip-gloss and her honey-coated skin was freckled by her nose. She was sitting regally in an old schoolhouse chair. As I walked past I saw that she was holding a shirtless baby. It did not strike me as odd that she could be a teen mother. It’s not rare in Panama nor is it in Philly, What was strange was the baby. Unlike the girl, he had bone straight ebony hair that stuck up around his head like a porcupine, the girl had very large round brown eyes but the baby had almond shaped eyes…

There was no mistaken…this little baby was very Asian. This teenage girl that was holding him was not. He didn’t look blasian or like he was mixed with any Spanish. This was very confusing. The small town that I was visiting did not have a sizable population and no Asian people lived in the town. So where did this baby come from and more importantly, who

m did this baby belong to?

Later that night, Lorena and I sat by candlelight and talked about life. I bought up the little Asian baby I had seen. “Where did that cute baby come from?” I asked. Lauren then told me the sad story of “El Chinito”. Now I will tell you that story:

It does not begin with his birth. To understand how this baby ended up in a home without electricity in the hills of Panama with a Latina parent you must travel a long road to the


capital. This is where his father lived and worked long hours. He owned and operated a small “Chino” or store selling sweets and rice from sun up to sun down. How he came to be in Panama I do not know. Maybe he was born in Panama or maybe the trap of poverty in China drove him to that small chino store on a corner of a crowded and drab street. He kept long hours and was alone for most of the day. It must have been very difficult to be alone and for no one to ever acknowledge that you even had a name. He had lost rights to that as soon as he started the store. He would forever be known simply as “Chino”. At o

nce he decided that he needed a wife. He wanted someone who could work with him at the store. He needed someone who would know that he had a name. Other then Chino. He wanted someone to maybe even love. He was not impressed with the selection of Chinese women around him or maybe no one would have him. So he decided to buy a wife. He bought his wife with the balboas and dollars that he collected by selling candy and rice.

I do not know much about the woman that he bought. I can only imagi

ne the life that she was living in China. A life that led her to be sold to a stranger a world away. She came, learned Spanish and started to work in the store. She soon became pregnant. She had not wanted a baby and soon after the baby was born she sent him back to China to live with her mother. She became pregnant again and again lived with the child for almost a year and sent it to China. The third time she became pregnant she became so desperate and unhappy that not even a month after he was born she gave that baby to a next-door neighbor. This third baby was the little boy I saw that day. “She just did not want him,” Lorena told him.. That was fair enough but how did he arrive to this small town 1 hour away in distance but


a world away from where he was born.

The next day we went to visit Chinito at his home. I came to find out that it was his

home on the weekends. A strong reddish brown woman with an oval face and ponytail offered me a seat on their patio. Chinito was crawling around
playing with a used toy bus and odds and ends he would find on the floor. He was a happy baby with bright inquisitive eyes and big smile. I got to hold him and we sat for a while staring into each other’s eyes. He was beautiful. I could not wrap my head around why his family could not or did not want to take care of him. After nearly 3 hours of hanging out at the house I found that “Chinito” was not his given name. His name was Danielle. The woman who invited me into her home was the sister of the woman that invited Danielle into hers. They took turns caring for him. During the week he lived next door to his natural parents in eyeshot of the Chino store. Sometimes his father would stop by late atnight and look at him. During the weekends he was shipped to this small town in the hills where the entire town came to his aid. Making him bottles of warm mild and trying to get him to eat rice. The primary care giver was very worried about what would happen to Danielle as his mother wanted to send him to China when he turned 6. She has fallen in love with him and wanted him to stay with her. Although she did say “He could go to china school and learn to speak chino”. Later that day I held him in my arms and we both held our hands out to play with the wind chimes on Lorena’s porch. As the cool metal touched his hands he let out a giggle. In that moment everything was perfect. The wind was blowing, he had a family, and most importantly he had a name. All of which was as transient as that blowing wind.


The End

Note:

Some people may be surprised that there is an Asian population in Panama at all. However, Panama and China has had a very close relationship for over 100 years. There is a huge Chinese population in Panama. They came originally to work on the canals and stayed. As time passed they became part of the Merchant class and many more Chinese have migrated. The Chinese here by and large own and run small stores called “Chinos”. They sell groceries and clothes and sometimes electronics. Panama also has a large amount of Chinese restaurants and the Chinese population has been so influential on the culture here that Latinos regularly cook “Chow Mein”. The Asians here are referred to as “Chino or China or Chinito or Chinita” regardless of their actual names. It is not uncommon to here a person say to an Asian shop owner “Hey Chino what time is it?” or “Where can I find the soap China?” Danielle’s story touched me deeply. It raised questions about female power or lack of. The obvious lack family planning outreach efforts in minority communities. Danielle's story raised concerns about globalization and the cost of leaving ones home. The displacement that these families encountered in the search of economic advancement saddened me. However the love that the community showed to Danielle filled me with hope.

Saturday, April 7, 2012

The QuinceaƱera






I recently went to a beautiful tipica quicenera. Here are some shots taken in low light without a flash. I hope you enjoy.


The Art of the Salimar

"ooohooo he he oooo" You will hear this yelled at high volume throughout the Campo of Panama. Its part yoodle part cry. It is called Salimar and it is the Country way of saying "Wassup". When I first heard it I wondered, "why are these people crying?" Now as I walk through my town I get a few Salamars from people I am really close with.
You hear the most Salamarin' when men are drunk. They do different combinations and try to battle each other to see who can hold the longest note or do the most intricate runs. It is really cool. This is such a big part of life here in Panama that they made a reality performance show about it. Children battle each other to see who can Salamar the best. It is a really popular show and each child represents its state or provence. I have tried to link up a commercial for the show to give you a taste of it. Lets see if it works:


Duros Vs. Water Ice



I am a Philly girl through and through. Anyone from Philly will tell you how important water ice is to the culture. My Childhood was filled with sweet flavored ices from Ritas and many times my friends and I would buy water ice off of the trucks that would patrol are hoods. Sometimes even riding on the back of the trucks for a block or 2! For those of you not from Philly, water ice is sort of like a snow cone... but better. At its best it has bits of fruit in it and it is always sweet and refreshing.


Panama has something like a Water Ice and PCV's as well as Panamanians love the stuff. Its called Duro's. It is usually made in a woman's kitchen with fruit pulp, water, and lots of sugar. It is then put in little sandwich bags and frozen. You bite the end of the sandwich bag and suck.. Often times with me it just drips all over the place. I am not the biggest fan as I am loyal to fault with the Philly water ice. However I did have one Duro that almost turned me into a fiend! It was Mareone and tasted like iced honey.. Very good.. Below are some pictures of PCVS eating duros lol



Crazy for Duros..Coffee Duros